Truworths on the Mark

This article was written by Jenni McCann for Cape Business News

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THERE has been a most intriguing side-show unfolding at iconic Cape Town fashion retailer Truworths. In early December the company issued an announcement that top rated French retailing expert Jean-Christophe Garbino had “decided to resign as an executive director of the company and as chief executive officer (designate.)” So far no official explanation has been given for Garbino’s decision to walk away from a plum job – a job that, by all accounts, he was very enthusiastic to take up. In any event, long serving CEO Michael Mark – a legend in fashion retailing circles – will now extend his tenure as boss of Truworths until at least the end of 2017.

The resignation of Garbino is not entirely surprising since a number of fashion industry wags had commented cynically on the prolonged stint the Frenchman endured as CEO designate. According to reports from last year’s AGM, Garbino was briefly introduced to shareholders, but played no role in the meeting (and apparently sat with the assembled shareholders and not at the table of top executives.)

In truth, there won’t initially be too much fuss about Mark remaining in the hot seat. Mark’s long-term track record is enviable … perhaps only matched in local retailing by Shoprite’s Whitey Basson. But there have been questions around whether Garbino’s mysterious resignation effectively compromises succession planning, and robs Truworths of a fresh perspective on its enlarged global operations.

Only time will tell whether a CEO with more than two decades of executive experience at the company will reward shareholders better than having an internationally renowned CEO overseeing the global growth of the company. Most Cape Town-based retailers – including Woolies and Pick n Pay – have seen regular changes to leadership. But it would be far fetched to claim that shareholder returns could be linked to whether companies sought enduring leadership or pursued regular changes in the guard.

In the meantime Truworths’ interim results to end December 27 are the only tangible evidence that can be gleaned in determining whether all is still well at the fashion retailer.

There is also the Truworth board’s confirmation that confirms that the group’s strategy of pursuing organic growth and acquisition opportunities will continue under the leadership of Mark.

In the interim period Truworths’ sales jumped 36% to R8.5bn with encouraging cash sales growth of 85% and credit sales growth of 16%. But if the retail sales reported by the recently acquired UK-based Office Retail Group Limited (Office,) Earthchild and Naartjie were excluded, then retail sales increased by 15% to R7,2bn with cash sales growth of 16% and credit sales growth of 15%.

Looking at comparable store retail sales for the period, the increase in sales was 10% (with product inflation averaging 9%.)

The comparable store sales figure is a key consideration since a net 46 stores were opened across all brands while the retail footprint was boosted by the above mentioned acquisitions (which added 224 stores.)

Still, the sheer scale of the new look Truworths organisation is staggering with 932 stores. However, it is important to note that the company’s gross margin decreased to 54.2% (2014: 55.3%) due to the acquisition of Office, which operates at a lower gross margin.

Mark, though, reassured that the gross margin was still within the current target range of 54% to 57% (set before the acquisition of Office.) He said if Office was stripped out of the interim numbers then the gross margin was level at 55,3%. The enduring Mark’s biggest challenge ahead is that the South African trading environment is expected to remain challenging for the rest of the year with further interest rates on the cards. He contended that Truworths was well-equipped to deal with environmental challenges.

He pointed out that Truworths had extensive experience in managing the risk of its mainstream ‘better-end fashion.’ through proven merchandise design and buying processes. He added that managing credit risk through ongoing application of strategies and best of breed sophisticated systems would ensure a healthy debtors book.

Happily for Mark, he could at least report that Truworths retail sales (excluding Office) for the first six weeks of trading in the second half of the financial year increased by around 17%.

Retailing sows profits for clothing business

This article was written by Marc Hasenfuss for BDLive

Monatic

ENDURING empowerment company Brimstone Investment has sewn up profits at its 100%-owned clothing manufacturing subsidiary House of Monatic (HoM), with the help of a fashion retailing thrust.

At an investment presentation last week, CEO Mustaq Brey disclosed HoM had increased revenue 17% to R214m, with net profit coming in at R6.4m. He said HoM — which manufactures brands such as Carducci and CSquared — had increased its share of the corporate wear and retail segments.

Although investors attending the presentation agreed that HoM’s achievement was noteworthy in a local clothing manufacturing sector in which margins had been torn to shreds by cheap imports, they did say that HoM was one of Brimstone’s peripheral investments.

Brimstone’s intrinsic value table places a book value of only R45m on HoM, which is also understood to hold valuable industrial properties.

This pales in comparison to the company’s main investments such as fishing conglomerate Oceana (R2bn) and Life Healthcare (R1.5bn).

But HoM was one of Brimstone’s first investments after its formation in the mid-’90s. It was acquired from the late Doug de Jager’s Lenco Holdings.

Mr Brey said HoM’s retail initiative — selling clothing through factory shops, show rooms and CSquared boutiques — was gaining traction.

He said there were now five boutiques in Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg, with plans to roll out another two this year, including at the Mall of Africa.

Mr Brey discounted suggestions that Brimstone could drive a fully fledged retail rollout at HoM. “Basically, we have been short of orders from major retailers … they simply are not ordering enough from us. So, we use our capacity to supply our own stores.”

He said retail sales now represented 15% of turnover.

Market watchers have pointed out that HoM’s retail ploy is not dissimilar to a successful tactic adopted in the 1990s by Rex Trueform (Rextru), a fashion retailer that has Brimstone as a 22% shareholder. For decades, Rextru was focused on clothing manufacturing, before launching the Queenspark fashion chain, which is now the main profit driver at the company.

However, any notions that Brimstone could usher HoM’s retail endeavours closer to Rextru seem unlikely.

Brimstone’s recent investment presentation made it clear the shareholding relationship with Rextru was a tense one.

Brimstone chairman Fred Robertson voiced considerable displeasure at Rextru — including arguing that the company’s nonexecutive chairman Michael Krawitz was grossly overpaid.

Mr Robertson said Brimstone’s influence as a major shareholder was negated by Rextru’s “double pyramid” structure, involving N-shares and holding company African & Overseas Enterprises.

“We’ve tried to rock the boat, but the pyramid is solid.”

Mr Robertson added that sometimes Brimstone was loathe to complain about the frustrating situation at Rextru. “We worry the JSE will delist Rextru, and then the company will be hidden away.”

Last week, Rextru reported that headline earnings for the six months ended-December improved 48% to 65.3c per share.

East Africa: The next hub for apparel sourcing?

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This article was compiled by Achim Berg, Saskia Hedrich and Bill Russo for Mckinsey and Company.

In the past two years East African countries—in particular, Ethiopia and Kenya—have the potential to become bigger players in garment manufacturing. But the road ahead won’t be easy.

In the past two years, a number of European companies—among them, H&M, Primark, and Tesco—began sourcing some of their garments from Ethiopia. The rest of the apparel industry took notice: since 2013, there has been rising interest in not just Ethiopia but also other East African countries as potential sourcing destinations for apparel. Also contributing to the buzz is the renewal of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), which gives certain countries in sub-Saharan Africa duty-free access to the US market.

What is the true potential of East Africa to grow into a major garment-sourcing hub? To find out, we visited factories in the region; interviewed stakeholders, including manufacturers and buyers; and analyzed market data. In addition, we conducted our third survey of chief purchasing officers (CPOs), this time with a series of questions focused on East Africa. This year, 40 apparel CPOs, representing a combined $70 billion in 2014 purchasing volume, responded to our survey. We found that East Africa could indeed become a more important center for apparel sourcing, but only if stakeholders—buyers, governments, and manufacturers—work together to improve business conditions in the region.

Up-and-coming sourcing countries

Nearly three-quarters of survey respondents said, as they did in 2011 and 2013, that over the next five years they expect to reduce their purchases from Chinese firms. Chinese apparel production has indeed fallen since 2010—but China remains the undisputed giant of garment manufacturing, with approximately $177 billion in apparel exports in 2013.

Among CPOs surveyed, Bangladesh remains at the top of the list of future sourcing destinations, with 48 percent of respondents including the country in their top three (Exhibit 1). And 62 percent said they intend to increase their sourcing value from Bangladesh over the next five years. The next two up-and-coming countries are Vietnam and India, where, respectively, 59 percent and 54 percent of surveyed CPOs plan to increase their sourcing value in the next five years. Yet the combined apparel exports of Bangladesh ($24 billion), Vietnam ($17 billion), and India ($17 billion) still amount to less than one-third of China’s.

For the first time in our survey, African nations appear on the list of countries expected to play more important roles in apparel manufacturing. Ethiopia, notably, is seventh on the list.

Foschini eyes UK retailer Whistles

wHISTLESWritten by Ashley Armstrong and Ben Marlow for the Telegraph. Foschini, the South African owner of womenswear retailer Phase Eight, is understood to be circling fashion brand Whistles.

The high street chain, which counts the Duchess of Cambridge as a fan, has called in advisers at KPMG to prepare for a sale and is already fielding interest from a clutch of prospective buyers.

If Foschini succeeds with a takeover of Whistles, it will be the latest South African company to snap up a British retailer, following a wave of deals.

Last year Brait, the investment vehicle controlled by South Africa’s richest man, Christo Wiese, bought New Look in a £1.9bn deal, while Truworths acquired footwear business Office for £256m.

Steinhoff International has also entered into a bidding war for both Argos and London-listed electrical retailer Darty in the past few weeks.

The Duchess of Cambridge is a dedicated fan of Whistles
The Duchess of Cambridge is a dedicated fan of Whistles CREDIT: TIM ROOKE / REX FEATURES

South African companies have been looking at ways of diversifying their sources of revenue beyond the rand, which has weakened by around 23pc against the dollar in the past year amid political turbulence.

Cape Town-based Foschini, which runs 2,000 stores across South Africa, bought Phase Eight last year from private equity firm Towerbrook in a move aimed at boosting its international expansion.

Chief executive Jane Sheperdson, the former boss of Topshop, continues to own a sizeable stake in Whistles after she engineered a management buy-in in 2008 with the backing of Baugur, the Icelandic investment firm.

The deal, which saw her and senior management take a 20pc stake, was refinanced a year later at the height of the financial crisis by other Icelandic investors after Baugur collapsed into administration.

It is not clear whether prospective buyers are being offered a stake or full control of Whistles, which has been judged to have been revived under Ms Sheperdson’s stewardship.

Whistles’ last available accounts showed that annual sales increased by 9pc to £63m but the fashion retailer swung to a pre-tax loss of £2.4m on the back of the costs of launching in the US and starting a menswear range. The business also spent £434,000 on a runway show at London Fashion Week.

Whistles has 49 stores in the UK and 76 concessions in shops including in Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Harrods and Bloomingdales. Whistles and Foschini declined to comment.

 

The Italian driving fashion’s mobile revolution

italian

With his high-waisted jeans and sneakers, nobody could have accused Steve Jobs of being a style leader.

Milan (AFP)

Posthumously however the Apple founder is becoming an icon of the luxury fashion business as the smartphone technology he pioneered shakes up a sector of the industry initially slow to embrace the Internet.

Ask Federico Marchetti, the Italian CEO of Yoox Net-A-Porter (YNAP), the fashion e-tail heavyweight that shifted 1.7 billion euros worth of designer gear and luxury goods last year.

“Around 50 percent of our sales came from people ordering on smartphones,” Marchetti told AFPTV in an interview at Milan fashion week.

“Frankly speaking if the iPhone had not been invented that figure would be much lower. So I have to say thank you to Steve Jobs. It is thanks to him that we can do our business.”

The group now headed by Marchetti was created by last year’s merger between his own Yoox.com and London-based but Swiss-owned Net-A-Porter (NAP).

On paper it was a match made in business heaven but it was not an easy birth: NAP’s founding shareholders were left grumbling about their stakes being undervalued and its American-born creator Natalie Massonet left the new company as the fusion neared completion.

Marchetti meanwhile was acclaimed for having pulled off the deal of a lifetime by persuading NAP’s Swiss owners, Richemont, to allow Yoox to effectively take over a rival that had bigger sales but was struggling to turn a profit.

According to unaudited, pro-forma figures, the new business had combined sales of 1.7 billion euros in 2015, up 31 percent on 2014.

– ‘Boutiques here to stay’ –

Marchetti, 47 this year, says YNAP is on the cusp of something much bigger as the industry arrives at a digital tipping point.

“I created Yoox in 1999 and at the time it was quite hard to persuade some designers to be on the Internet,” the art-loving entrepreneur recalled. “Now I can see that the vision I had is getting there.

“There is a strong convergence between fashion and the Internet, especially through mobile. It has helped a lot and mobile will be the key to the future.”

Online sales currently only account for around five to six percent of top end fashion sales around the world. Analysts estimate that the figure could triple or more inside a decade but nobody really knows how quickly the online revolution will unfold.

Top luxury brands have long been able to command margins in excess of 20 percent, giving them a powerful incentive not to tamper with their business model.

Customers will never want to give up visiting boutiques and being able to see and touch the clothes before they buy them, Marchetti was frequently told when starting out.

That is changing. As well as operating its own sales platforms, Yoox manages in-house online for dozens of brands including Armani, Valentino and Alexander McQueen — an activity that contributes 10 percent of YNAP’s turnover.

But its CEO insists the shutters will not be coming down on designer boutiques.

– ‘Apps not India’ –

“I have never been a fanatic,” he said. “I believe in the hybrid model where the physical shops will be helped by online, as is happening now with half the purchases in-shop driven by (research on) the Internet, and vice versa.”

Marchetti believes the next wave of growth will be powered by a new generation of dedicated fashion-retail smartphone apps, something he sees as even more important in the short term than the potential of emerging markets.

“I see something more tomorrow in the smartphone rather than India,” he said.

Marchetti also plays down the “see now, buy now” trend which has seen the likes of Tom Ford offering their new clothes to customers as soon as they are shown on catwalks, rather than making them wait for the appropriate season.

Giorgio Armani is among those to have poured cold water on a trend which, if it took off, could sweep away the system of twice-yearly fashion weeks in Milan and elsewhere linked to the northern hemisphere’s seasons.

“There will be a gradual change but, especially for brands focused on luxury, it will take a longer time,” Marchetti said.

Italian handbag designer Francesco Visone said young creatives recognise that change is fashion’s new normal.

“With a disruptive wave, either you ride or it destroys you,” he said. “Business is not like 30 years ago, everything is consumed more quickly and Yoox saw that coming.”

Israeli-Italian designer Daizy Shely said she had seen interest in her fledgling brand surge after she had a Marabou feather jacket showcased on Net-A-Porter.

And she also embraces smartphone shopping as a consumer. “When you are in a shop in Milan everyone is jumping on you and they won’t leave you alone,” she said.

“My mum loves that but for me, I want to be sitting on my bed alone in an online shop. Whatever I want is arriving to the house like a gift. I think I am addicted to this.”

© 2016 AFP

Plunging consumer confidence leaves Edcon with slumping sales

edcon

This article was written by Janice Kew for BDLive
EDCON, SA’s largest clothing retailer, said third-quarter sales slippedas consumer confidence in the country approached a 14-year low.

Retail sales at the owner of the Edgars, Jet and CNA chains fell 1.7% to R8.69bn in the three months to the end of December,Edcon said on Friday.Cash sales climbed 4%,while transactions settled at a later date dropped 9.9%.

South African retailers and consumers are under pressure as the country’s worst drought in more than a century pushes prices higher, with December food inflation climbing to 5.8%. Meanwhile, a weakening rand prompted the central bank to raise interest rates 50 basis points in January, increasing repayment costs for those with loans or mortgages.

“The overall trading environment remained challenging during the current quarter primarily due to higher income taxes, rising unemployment, rising interest rates and a sharp depreciation in the rand,” the company said.
Bain Capital Partners, based in Boston, US, bought Edcon for about R25bn in 2007 to tap into rising economic growth in Africa’s second-largest economy. The deal burdened the retailer with debt, which increased 4.1% to R22.6bn year-on-year.

Jockeying for position

This article was written by Buhle Mbonambi for Independent Online.
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Durban – Fashion designer David Tlale has notched up another achievement.

He is one of the most illustrious designers on the continent and there is no denying his success. He has conquered South Africa and the continent and his shows at New York Fashion Week have been grabbing the right kind of attention.

So it comes as no surprise that Jockey wants to work with him. It’s the first major deal for a South African designer creating a range of underwear for an international brand.

“It was one of those big deals that I couldn’t say no to,” the designer told me from his Joburg studio. “Jockey is a huge brand. Everyone knows and/or wears Jockey.

The collaboration, which will hit stores in July, will see Tlale create a special collection of luxury underwear for men and women.

”It’s obviously going to have a higher price… It’s luxury underwear. It’s one you want to see people wearing.

“Many people take underwear seriously, which is why brands like Calvin Klein have a successful underwear range. We see it at the gym. We see the branded elastication of the underwear peeping out from men’s jeans. There’s a certain status afforded to it. So why can’t we replicate that success with a label that’s very popular in South Africa?”

This Jockey deal and other brand extension commitments are the reasons why he decided not to showcase at New York Fashion Week this season. “To be honest, we are busy. It was purely a business move and we will be back in September for the summer 2017.”

His engagements in the country and on the continent, are keeping him on the hop.

“Yes, everyone knows David Tlale and what the brand stands for, but we want to make inroads and increase our footprint. There’s a big demand from countries like Nigeria, Ghana, Kenya, Zambia and Zimbabwe.”

The three years and six seasons he has been showing in New York, Tlale says, have given him the guts to aim to show in other fashion capitals, like Paris. “The plan is to go global and I feel we are well on our way to doing that.”

Designers are now choosing to show their ranges out of season. Tom Ford, Burberry, Vetements, Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger are choosing to show less and make their clothes available immediately. This move is called the “buy-now wear-now” model, and it is revolutionary because it will close the six-month time lag between the presentation and retail delivery.

Tlale loves this. “No one waits six months for an item they saw on the runway. They want it now. We have consumers who, when they see the item, want it at that moment, and it’s great for the industry.”

While it will mean that they must work harder, it will cut down the copycat designs of the fast fashion brands.

“It used to be that you showed your collection and a few weeks later, the fast fashion stores had replicated your work. When your clothes landed on the racks of stores six months later, people didn’t buy them because they had something similar.”

He is disappointed some South African retailers rarely stock local designs. “We are talented and it’s sad that you rarely see our designs in major retailers like Woolworths, Edgars and Markham.

In the US you find collections from their designers in almost every clothing store.

“Why don’t we have the same system in South Africa?”

The solution, he said, was to pressure retailers to support local fashion. “With shops like Topshop, Zara and H&M in the country, it’s a great opportunity for our retailers to focus on local designers and work with them.

“I am working on a diffusion line called David by David Tlale, which will be sold on e-tailer, Spree. We need more of these. And the ‘South African designers are unreliable’ excuse will not fly any more. How are you, as a retailer, helping the designer know the business so the clothes will be delivered on time?

“Can we please be given a chance? That’s how the industry will grow, when we work together.”

His next show is in Durban for the Metro FM Music Awards Fashion Experience at the Waterfront Hotel on Friday.

“It’s a small capsule collection but it celebrates the MMAs and how much (of a role) that has played in my career.”

Amazon has quietly launched its own clothing lines, as it tries to take over fashion retail

This article was written by Marc Bain for Quartz Magazine

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Already in the midst of a massive growth spurt, Amazon is looking to fashion to keep fueling its expansion. For months there have been clues that the e-commerce giant was developing its own in-house clothing brands, and just last week, job postings from the company (paywall) hinted it was actively moving toward a launch. But it seems the launch already quietly occurred.

The company has introduced at least 1,800 different fashion products on its site, under seven different brand names it trademarked, according to a Feb. 21 note by Ed Yruma, managing director and equity research analyst at KeyBanc Capital Markets. As WWD reported (paywall), Amazon is selling a wide variety of items, including women’s clothing and bags, men’s tailored wear and accessories, and even children’s clothing. They exist under the labels Society New York, Lark & Ro, Scout + Ro, Franklin & Freeman, Franklin Tailored, James & Erin, and North Eleven.
Searches of public records confirm that Amazon owns the trademarks to these brands. A quick look at the items for sale, such as a turtleneck dress from Society New York for $39.97, and a cap-toe oxford by Franklin & Freeman for $53.97, indicates Amazon is sticking toward the cheaper end of the price spectrum for its in-house labels.
A screen capture of the one of the items reportedly from Amazon’s private fashion linesFashion by Amazon.
In any case, Amazon has been moving toward launching its own lines as its fashion strategy shifts. Since it jumped into fashion retail more than a decade ago, it has occasionally struggled to gain traction, partnering with existing retailers and clothing brands. Its solution has at times been to acquire or launch its own outlets, including Shopbop and East Dane, and it makes sense that it would create its own clothing brands when its existing partnerships don’t offer what its shoppers want.
“When we see gaps, when certain brands have actually decided for their own reasons not to sell with us, our customer still wants a product like that,” Jeff Yurcisin, vice president of clothing at Amazon Fashion and CEO of Shopbop, said at a retail conference in October.

In-house brands can also sell extremely well. At fashion e-commerce powerhouse Revolve, the company’s private-label brands are some of its top sellers. And KeyBanc notes that, at their peak, Amazon’s margins in apparel are better than other goods, while the company has said fashion is one of its fastest-growing categories.

While Amazon faces definite headwinds to developing its apparel business—KeyBanc notes only about 15% of its active customers buy clothes through the site—the potential is there for Amazon to disrupt retail in the mass-market. Amazon has an immense amount of data to draw on, which could allow it to identify consumer trends and respond quickly, a capability that has allowed fast-fashion to take sales from chains such as Gap.
Successful private labels would also make it even more competitive against competitors that rely on brick-and-mortar stores. According to financial firm Cowen and Company, Amazon is on course to top Macy’s as the largest clothing retailer in the US this year.
The conditions are right for big profits, and more growth for Amazon.

Tills jingling for Cape retailers

This article was written by Jenni McCann and originally appeared in Cape Business News.

money

CAPE TOWN headquartered retail conglomerates appeared to enjoy brisk Christmas trading with recent sales updates mostly confirming double digit growth. The trading statements – to an extent – allay fears that discretionary spending would dry up as consumers faced up to the prospect of lower salary increases and the prospect of higher interest rates as well as higher prices following the calamitous collapse in the rand against major international currencies. But the outlook for 2016 remains cautious, and local retailers are going to have to work extra hard to maintain margins and keep top line ticking over.

Woolworths – which sells a combination of groceries, general merchandise and fashion lines – reported group sales up a sprightly 17% for the 26 weeks ended 27 December 2015. If the recently acquired business of Australian-based department store David Jones was excluded, then Woolworths’ sales increased by 12,3%.

Woolworths clothing sales increased by 11,7% with a price movement of 6,6%. Sales in comparable stores grew by 8% with net retailing space growing 7,2%. General merchandise sales growth was markedly slower, increasing by 5,8% and only by 2,3% in comparable stores.

But Woolworths Food sales jumped by 12,1% with a price movement of 5,7%. Sales in comparable stores grew by 5,8% with net retail space increasing almost 10%.

Another key indicator was that Woolworths Financial Services division saw its debtors’ book growing nearly 8% for the trading period, with an annualised impairment rate of less than 5%. The bottom line is that Woolworths expects earnings for the 26 week trading period to come in between 30 and 40% higher.

Fashion retailer Truworths International – which has recently seen its retiring CEO Michael Mark opting to stay on board until 2017 – disclosed that its group retail sales for the 26-week period to the end of 2015 increased 36% to R8,5bn. The turnover growth figure, though, does include contributions from the recently acquired Office Retail Group as well as the Earthchild and Naartjie businesses.

Office is a cash based footwear retailer in the UK – in which Truworths acquired an 89% stake in early December. The contribution from Office meant Truworths encouragingly reported that group cash sales grew by 85% and credit sales by almost 16%. Credit sales comprised about 60% of total sales. If the sales recorded by Office, Earthchild and Naartjie were set aside, the retail sales for the period increased by 15% to R7,2bn with cash sales growth of 16% and credit sales growth of 15%

Like-for-like store retail sales give some indication of how tough trading really was in the 26-week period – increasing by just 10% for the period with product inflation averaging 9%. Truworths reported that the percentage of active account holders able to purchase remained at 86%.

The Foschini Group – which also owns menswear specialist Markhams – reported that Christmas trading was above expectation with group sales growth for December coming in at a nifty 27,2%. If the recently acquired UK-based Phase Eight business was excluded, then turnover growth was 13,5% with same store growth of 6,9%.

Foschini reported strong Christmas sales growth in clothing (16,7%) and cellphones (13,8%.)

Excluding Phase Eight, cash sales growth for December was 20,8% and credit sales grew by 7%.

Foschini reported that group sales for the nine months to 26 December 2015 increased 33,0%. But if Phase Eight was stripped out then turnover growth registered just below 12%, and less than 6% on a same store basis. Foschini also conveniently provided a post-Christmas sales update from December 27 to January 9 – noting group sales up almost 40% and 12,5% in Phase Eight was taken out of the equation. Same store growth was 6,2%.

Woodstock-based New Clicks – which owns Clicks Stores, Musica and the Body Shop – reported group turnover up 12% in the 20 weeks to January. The flagship Clicks chain increased sales by 13,6% – a performance, its directors contended, highlighted the resilience of the business in an environment of declining consumer confidence and increasing economic uncertainty.

Clicks reported comparable store sales growth of almost 116% and showed real volume growth of 7,2% with selling price inflation measured at 3,4%. The Body Shop increased sales by 12,7% and by 9,3% in comparable stores, while Musica grew sales by 2,6%. Total group turnover grew topped R9,2bn for the period with CE David Kneale singling out the Clicks chain, which managed a strong performance across all product categories.

“Over the festive season in particular customers responded positively to our product ranges and to our promotions.”

Looking ahead, Kneale expected trading conditions to be challenging, with consumers facing further pressure from a combination of higher inflation and rising interest rates.

Brackenfell-based supermarket giant Shoprite seemed to labour for growth traction in the six months to end December 2015. Group turnover increased 8,8% from R57,5bn to about R62,5bn. But growth on a like-for-like basis was a pedestrian 2,8%. CEO Whitey Basson said that after an improved second quarter driven by good festive season trading, the South African supermarket operations increased sales by 7,2%. Internal inflation averaged just 2.7% for the period.

The group’s non-RSA supermarkets – mainly scattered around Africa – recorded sales growth of 15,2%. This is a commendable effort considering the impact of (dramatically) lower commodity prices and the devaluation of certain currencies. Shoprite’s furniture division grew sales by 13,7% for the period with the OK Furniture brand the stand out performer.

 

Just how big is the Bangladesh garment sector?

This article was written by Leonie Barrie and originally appeared in Just Style.

bangla

Just how many factories there are in the Bangladesh garment industry, the size of the workforce, and the number of workers covered by the various initiatives aimed at improving factory safety? The answer, it seems, is that nobody knows for sure and a has now broken out between two groups of academics over their analysis.

At the heart of the debate is a report ‘Beyond the Tip of the Iceberg: Bangladesh’s Forgotten Apparel Workers,’ which was published in December by New York University’s Stern Center for Business and Human Rights. It claimed there are thousands more factories in Bangladesh and almost a million more workers producing garments for export than have previously been accounted for.<h/3>

The researchers also concluded that there has been a “woeful lack of progress in actually fixing unsafe factories and that there still is no comprehensive plan to provide the resources to do so.”

But professors from Pennsylvania State University and the University of Colorado, who have studied the findings, say they have identified a series of errors in data collection and analysis – and have in fact come to the opposite conclusion.

“Contrary to Stern’s assertions, more than 70% of garment workers in Bangladesh are covered by the Accord and the Alliance, and if we include workers employed in factories inspected by the ILO-advised National Initiative, the percentage of covered workers reaches 89%,” they say.

Among the key findings of the Stern Center’s report was the identification of 7,000 garment factories in Bangladesh, a massive increase on previous estimates of 4,500 factories. It also assessed the prevalence of indirect sourcing, concluding that 91% of factories in two sub-districts of Dhaka, including informal subcontractors, produced at least partly for export and were unregistered.

It backed its hypothesis with the observation that from 2013 to 2015 while the number of direct exporters remained constant, total apparel export volumes fluctuated substantially. This is because either each direct exporter is able to dramatically increase and decrease its production in response to shifting demand, or the thousands of indirect suppliers enable direct exporters to accommodate significant shifts, it said.

While Stern’s report was based on an analysis of factory data collected from publicly available sources and a field survey, the researchers at Pennsylvania and Colorado say the database included closed factories (including the five factories destroyed in the Rana Plaza building collapse in April 2013), duplicate, and domestic market-oriented factories.

“We estimate that Stern’s database of 7,165 export factories is inflated by at least two thousand factories,” the professors say in their report ‘The Bulk of the Iceberg: A Critique of the Stern Center’s Report on Worker Safety in Bangladesh.’

Other criticisms of the Stern work are that they could not find the majority of the factories in the two sub-districts of Dhaka; the claim there are 5.1m garment workers in Bangladesh is unreliable because it is based on the flawed factory database; unregistered, informal factories employ less than 2% of workers producing garments for export; and “several hundred factories” were not categorised properly, resulting in an underestimate of the number of workers covered by the Accord and Alliance initiatives.

The Pennsylvania State University and University of Colorado analysis instead estimate there are 3.85m workers, and that the Accord and the Alliance initiatives cover 71.4% of workers in the ready-made garments sector.

Add in those under the National Initiative, the ILO-advised government factory inspection programme, and it calculates nearly 3.43m workers are covered – representing 89.1% of all workers.

While the Stern Center academics say they dispute many of the latest assertions about their work, there is one are on which they all agree: that there has been progress in addressing factory safety in Bangladesh, but that much work remains to be done.