Epson Panel Explores Tech’s Impact on Fashion

Author : Caitlin Kelly

NEW YORK—Whether you’re a small startup designer or a long-established global brand, digital technology is becoming an ever more essential part of the fashion supply chain, industry experts agree.

A seven-member panel, convened by Epson to launch New York Fashion Week, brought together a diverse range of viewpoints from academia, event management, production and design.

“The time to replace analog with digital is now,” said Minoru Usui, president of Seiko Epson Corp., citing the “outstanding quality and great cost performance for small-lot production” that digital technologies, whether hardware or printing, can offer. Epson produces four categories of digital technology: inkjet printers, visual technology, wearable technology and robotics.

“We’re seeing a shift in the way design departments are keeping up with the consumer, thanks to social media driving instant gratification,” said Anthony Cenname, vice president and publisher of WSJ Magazine, who moderated the panel.

“What we’re looking at from a tech perspective is—how will technology affect us most? Both at retail and in terms of the customer experience,” said Barry McGeough, group vice president at PVH Innovation Next, the country’s second-largest apparel importer. While joking about the “iPhone-ization of our industry,” like “a drone showing up at your house with a bottle of Windex,” the challenges are very real, he said. Artificial intelligence and machine learning are becoming more-important tools, he said, citing companies such as StitchFix that are using AI successfully.

“Technology has affected every part of our business,” said independent designer Erin Fetherston, whose brand is 12 years old. “It’s rapidly accelerating the way we do business and consumers’ expectations. See-now, buy-now is where technology is our greatest aid.”

From initial online inspiration—which used to mean “going to the library to check out old issues of Vogue”—to final tweaks of finished apparel, technology affects all her work, she said.

“Technology has changed a lot of things,” agreed Paolo Crespi, commercial director of For.Tex, a leading company in the production of dyes, thickeners, and products for fabric pre- and post-treatment, based in Como, Italy, that is owned by Epson.

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Erin Fetherston, designer at Erin Fetherston

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Assaf Ziv, creative director at Elie Tahari

“People used to do four collections a year, and with digital it’s changed completely,” he said. “It used to take three to four weeks to produce a design and now it takes a few days. There’s no limitation on colors, for example.”

Digital technology allows for quick, short runs, said McGeough, allowing designers to make capsule collections. Customization “at the retail level is not novel any longer. That’s gone. That’s now table stakes.”

The ability to hyper-customize is more important than ever, agreed Fetherston. “I see the individual customer wanting more and more uniqueness. It feels like everyone wants a unique piece.” That means making fewer units, “the opposite of how you’d strategize manufacturing from a few years ago.”

Digital printing allows for much greater flexibility, said Assaf Ziv, creative director of Elie Tahari. “We can print on lace and sequins, making an illusion of 3D or 4D. For us, it’s essential. It’s a big tool.”

The industry also needs to focus more on R&D and make use of what it already knows, McGeough added.

“The data are floating around waiting for us to find it and use it,” he said. “Look for what people want by looking at the data you already have. Data analysis in fashion is a big job now. We were gently chided by Intel, who told us, ‘Wake up! You’re a data company.’ I would totally agree.”

Sustainable production is also aided by technology, he said. “If we can take the water process out, we can take out costs and speed up efficiency,” he said. “How do we compete with the H&Ms and Uniqlos of the world, who put out 26 seasons a year? We’re going to do that by being closer to the market by using robotics and automated processes. It’s all about lead-time optimization. How can we make our market more competitive? By focusing on speed, lower costs and reduced inventory.”

Having fiber created at needle “is very, very important,” he added. “That could be a really compelling proposition.”

Article written by Caitlin Kelly for California Apparel News

Edcon CEO “free to walk the floor” as financial gymnastics end

By Sasha Planting   for Moneyweb

At the end of February private equity firm Bain Capital walked away from its acquisition of Edcon with nothing to show for its decade-long investment.

As a result roughly 48 000 staff breathed a monumental sigh of relief. Without the R27 billion debt load and annual interest bill of R4.1 billion, the retail group has a fighting chance of survival. Debt is now reduced to about R7 billion and the annual interest bill is R500 000 – small change in the scheme of things.

However while the group’s turnaround strategy is showing ‘green shoots’, the executive team and the new board, which replaces the previous Bain-heavy board, have their work cut out for them.

The new board became necessary following the capital restructure whereby debt-holders swapped their debt for equity, in the process acquiring a majority shareholding in the group. The new shareholders include SA’s major banks as well as international investment firms such as Franklin Templeton. A BEE consortium owns the remaining 20%.

None of these institutions are represented on the new board, opting instead to help select an independent board. From an initial list of 30 candidates, the selection panel selected six new board members, with the seventh, Keith Warburton, the only person from the previous board. According to Edcon CEO Bernie Brookes no one declined the invitation to join the board.

“We have what we wanted – a strong chairman, strong financial skills, good retail knowledge, an understanding of debt (which we needed to retain once Bain walked away), as well as a recognition of diversity,” he says.

One criterion for the board members was that they could not have big workloads outside of Edcon. “We were not interested in people with four or more directorships,” says Brookes, “we will be calling on the board extensively, far more so than in a publically-listed firm.”

The board has three vital roles: to oversee the execution of strategy; to ensure a good exit for shareholders, and to manage shareholders, who, lets face it, have had a tough time.

This support will free the CEO to ‘walk the floor’. Edcon’s debt troubles meant that Brookes (pictured left) and his team spent most of the past year engaged in ‘financial gymnastics’ rather than driving the operational changes necessary.

The turnaround strategy, which Brookes says he is ‘warming to’ as it starts to prove itself, has not yet made its mark on the bottom line. In the three-month period ending December 24 2016, Edcon sales declined by about 3% compared to the same three-month period the year before, while gross and Ebitda margins declined by about 3% and 2%, respectively.

This was to be expected. Edgars alone has closed about 140 stores. The retailer has also abandoned its expensive adventure with international brands, cutting brands represented from 37 to about 8 as it focuses on homegrown favourites like Kelso, Stone Harbour and Penny C. In the process Edgars has had to write off about R300 million in old stock, which “cost us dearly,” says Brookes.

Margins have also come under pressure as Edgars and Jet management have had a hard look at what it takes to compete and have dropped prices accordingly. “International players in this market are forcing apparel retailers to relook their speed to market, their quality and their price points,” he says.

“They [international players] will continue to grow in this market, which is a global phenomenon, and local retailers will have to learn to compete – next will come supermarkets like Aldi and Lidl.”

While the new strategy is not in all stores yet, it is resonating with customers. For instance trading at Edgars Canal Walk has increased from R7 000 per m²/month to R24 000 m²/month. Across the group sales have increased for each of the last three quarters – though not enough to generate positive growth yet.

The fall in credit sales, which was precipitous following the sale of the book to Absa, has also been steadied. That’s because Edcon is now funding the lower LSM customer off its own book – which the retailer can now afford to do.

Brookes is confident that the department store model, which has not fared well in South Africa over the last 20 years, has a place. “The likes of John Lewis, Selfridges, Takashimaya in Singapore or Galeries Lafayette in France show that if you can put customer service first, provide customers with a one-stop solution, differentiate yourself and create a sense of ‘theatre’ in store, you can succeed.”

This is no small task. However an elephant is not eaten in one bite. The first breakthrough will come with positive sales growth which Brookes expects in six to nine months time. “It took a long time to break this business, it will take time to repair.”

Author: Sasha Planting

Twenty things to do before your fashion retail interview.

While it’s perfectly normal to feel nervous, excited and a bit stressed when going for an interview in the fast paced fashion industry, proper planning and preparation can go a long way to eliminate a lot of stress and calm your nerves. We compiled a list of things you can do to help you show yourself at your very best and eliminate some of the anxiety.  

 

Research

  1. Visit one of their stores.
  2. Look at their websites
  3. Study their competition.
  4. Know who the senior management team is (CEO, HRD, etc.)
  5. Check the history, ownership and recent mergers.
  6. Check out the social media or professional profiles of the company and/or your interviewer.
  7. Look at their financial data and share price.
  8. Look up previous news stories.
  9. Find out about the company culture.
  10. Make sure you know the dress code.

 

Personal preparation.

  1. Check your journey.
  2. Get to the interview 30 minutes early, but don’t announce yourself until 10 minutes before your appointment time.
  3. Be pleasant to the receptionist, the security guard and anyone you meet on or near the company’s premises.
  4. Don’t smoke just before you go in.
  5. Get rid of your chewing gum before you go near the company’s premises.
  6. Switch your mobile phone OFF before arrival. If you forget and it rings, don’t answer it.
  7. Mention the company’s recent success and achievements.
  8. Don’t comment on any bad publicity.
  9. If appropriate, wear something that the company sells.
  10. Make sure your social media profiles are appropriate.

By Lionel Krieger for Traut Personnel