Just how big is the Bangladesh garment sector?

This article was written by Leonie Barrie and originally appeared in Just Style.

bangla

Just how many factories there are in the Bangladesh garment industry, the size of the workforce, and the number of workers covered by the various initiatives aimed at improving factory safety? The answer, it seems, is that nobody knows for sure and a has now broken out between two groups of academics over their analysis.

At the heart of the debate is a report ‘Beyond the Tip of the Iceberg: Bangladesh’s Forgotten Apparel Workers,’ which was published in December by New York University’s Stern Center for Business and Human Rights. It claimed there are thousands more factories in Bangladesh and almost a million more workers producing garments for export than have previously been accounted for.<h/3>

The researchers also concluded that there has been a “woeful lack of progress in actually fixing unsafe factories and that there still is no comprehensive plan to provide the resources to do so.”

But professors from Pennsylvania State University and the University of Colorado, who have studied the findings, say they have identified a series of errors in data collection and analysis – and have in fact come to the opposite conclusion.

“Contrary to Stern’s assertions, more than 70% of garment workers in Bangladesh are covered by the Accord and the Alliance, and if we include workers employed in factories inspected by the ILO-advised National Initiative, the percentage of covered workers reaches 89%,” they say.

Among the key findings of the Stern Center’s report was the identification of 7,000 garment factories in Bangladesh, a massive increase on previous estimates of 4,500 factories. It also assessed the prevalence of indirect sourcing, concluding that 91% of factories in two sub-districts of Dhaka, including informal subcontractors, produced at least partly for export and were unregistered.

It backed its hypothesis with the observation that from 2013 to 2015 while the number of direct exporters remained constant, total apparel export volumes fluctuated substantially. This is because either each direct exporter is able to dramatically increase and decrease its production in response to shifting demand, or the thousands of indirect suppliers enable direct exporters to accommodate significant shifts, it said.

While Stern’s report was based on an analysis of factory data collected from publicly available sources and a field survey, the researchers at Pennsylvania and Colorado say the database included closed factories (including the five factories destroyed in the Rana Plaza building collapse in April 2013), duplicate, and domestic market-oriented factories.

“We estimate that Stern’s database of 7,165 export factories is inflated by at least two thousand factories,” the professors say in their report ‘The Bulk of the Iceberg: A Critique of the Stern Center’s Report on Worker Safety in Bangladesh.’

Other criticisms of the Stern work are that they could not find the majority of the factories in the two sub-districts of Dhaka; the claim there are 5.1m garment workers in Bangladesh is unreliable because it is based on the flawed factory database; unregistered, informal factories employ less than 2% of workers producing garments for export; and “several hundred factories” were not categorised properly, resulting in an underestimate of the number of workers covered by the Accord and Alliance initiatives.

The Pennsylvania State University and University of Colorado analysis instead estimate there are 3.85m workers, and that the Accord and the Alliance initiatives cover 71.4% of workers in the ready-made garments sector.

Add in those under the National Initiative, the ILO-advised government factory inspection programme, and it calculates nearly 3.43m workers are covered – representing 89.1% of all workers.

While the Stern Center academics say they dispute many of the latest assertions about their work, there is one are on which they all agree: that there has been progress in addressing factory safety in Bangladesh, but that much work remains to be done.

 

Boston Retail Partners’ 2015 Merchandise Planning Survey

According to the Boston Retail Partners’ 2015 Merchandise Planning Survey: ‘Today’s retailers are wrestling with a myriad of business and IT issues. Adding to the already long list, current planning systems are out-of-date and don’t effectively address today’s requirements for an omni-channel planning environment. Most retailers find their current planning applications are ineffective and can’t support the complex analysis required to optimize planning decisions and ultimately meet customer demand. The good news is that most retailers realize this and more than half of retailers are planning to upgrade or replace their planning applications within two years.”

rsz_1download_full_report

Bleaker outlook hits Woolworths stock

This article was written by Marc Hasenfuss and originally appeared in BDLive 

SHARES in upmarket retailer Woolworths (Woolies), the darling of the JSE’s consumer sector, were shredded yesterday, with nervous investors fretting over less compelling prospects for the financial year ahead.

The shares finished 7.65% down despite Woolies reporting a 17% increase in revenue to R35.5bn and a 31% gain in headline earnings to 252c a share in interim results to end December. At one point the stock dipped as low as R84.20 — a drop of more than 9%.

One market source suggested there had been a spate of selling by foreign investors.

If the contribution from recent Australian acquisition David Jones was stripped out, then the Woolies top line was up a solid 12.3%.

While the interim numbers largely met expectations, the market is clearly fretting about prospects for the second half.

 

Although Woolies CEO Ian Moir reported robust trading for the first six weeks in the second half, independent analyst Syd Vianello said that there were tough times lying ahead for Woolies in the South African and Australian markets.

In SA, Woolies faced not only the prospect of higher interest rates, but also the possibility of an increase in value-added tax (VAT). “I would not touch a retail share now. I’d rather wait two weeks for the budget until the state of play as regards VAT is clear,” Mr Vianello said.

Directors underlined their confidence in the company’s prospects by hiking the interim payout 38% to 133c/share. Shareholders have been offered a scrip dividend option.

Avior retail analyst Kyle Rollinson suggested the scrip dividend option might have weighed on investor sentiment. “The market does not like scrip dividends, and we saw this with (fashion retailer) Foschini. It can be indicative of a share being expensive.”

In a note to clients, JP Morgan Cazenove analyst Stephen Carrott said the scrip dividend was a complete surprise considering the relatively comfortable gearing of Woolies.

He said Woolies management attributed the scrip alternative to a combination of going into an intensive capital expenditure phase of the business and uncertain economic times on the horizon.

A divisional breakdown showed clothing and general merchandise posting a much improved half, with sales growing 12.5% in SA. Mr Moir reported a good performance from core womenswear and menswear categories and a strong improvement from childrens wear.

The food division pushed sales up 12.1% and operating profit up 18%. Mr Moir said that the company’s supermarket strategy proved successful, adding that Christmas sales had been strong.

In Australia, department store business David Jones increased sales 11% on a 26-week basis, while Country Road saw a 5% increase in operating profit from a 13% gain at top line.Ian+Moir+xxx+February+12+2015+

The #JetLoveYourself campaign is everything that the fashion industry needs

This article was written by Antoinette Muller and originally appeared in The South African.com

 

 

Jet is undergoing a bit of a rebrand at the moment and it has announced itself with a bang. The #JetLoveYourself campaign is making waves on social media for the simplest reason: it uses every day sized women and features diverse models.

By the fashion industry’s standard, these women would be labelled “plus-size” because according to the fashion industry, women above size eight are considered “plus”. Of course, if you go into a retail store, “plus sized clothing” will usually be a size 16 and up, but when it comes to modelling agencies, anything that’s not incredibly skinny is thought of as “plus”.

That’s why this campaign is so amazing, it’s trying to smash the perspective that there even is such a thing as “plus-size”. Whether you are super skinny or a bit more curvy doesn’t matter and what size you are should not determine whether you love yourself or not. It also reminds women that they are more than their size.

While the concept of using normal sized women isn’t anything new (Dove has done it for years), it’s quite new in South Africa.  Inspiring body positivity and teaching women that their bodies should not be held up by the fashion industry’s warped standards is a great thing.

It’s sad that we still have to celebrate this as something revolutionary, but it’s a start. Now, over to you, rest of South Africa’s fashion brands…

Internet of Things unlocks retail opportunities

By Jessica Knight.

IoT-in-RetailThe Internet of Things (IoT) is an increasingly talked about topic in all sectors – particularly in retail. It’s a concept that not only has the potential to impact how the retail sector sells products, but how consumers buy them.

The majority of US retailers strongly believe that IoT will drastically change the way companies do business in the next three years. According to McKinsey Global Analysis Institute research, IoT in the retail environment – where consumers engage in commerce – has the potential to be the 4th largest ‘setting’ – despite significant uncertainty about the rate of adoption by consumers.

Another recent study reveals that consumers appear to be ready with adoption of IoT devices expected to rise quickly with nearly two-thirds of consumers intending to purchase a connected home device by 2019, while ownership of wearable technology is expected to double year-on-year in 2016, with an estimated $2bn being spent on IoT in the next few years.

So what does IoT mean for retail in 2016 and what are the key areas we can expect to see affected?

Fashion:

      ZARA has led the way with a new look at the role RFID (Radio Frequency ID) tags could play in their business model. They started this journey three years ago and by the end of 2016 will have rolled out an end-to-end RFID platform. Key to this was allowing the RFID tags to be embedded in the security tags, which allow them to be reused. These tags offer benefits in in-store workflow, improvements in accuracy and reduction in the time taken to do stock counts – the business case is compelling.

 

Automated vending:

      Companies are deploying fully automated, reduced-line stores. They can be put into retail areas and achieve targeted penetration in a low-cost way, while reducing risk.

 

Intelligent replenishment:

      By allowing for monitoring of stock levels, smart packaging will now allow fridges or pantries to order new goods when stock runs low.

 

Connected homes and stores:

    Connected homes will offer connected health and wellness devices, pantries, appliances and even connected medicine cabinets, while connected stores include technologies such as contactless checkout, scanning, iBeacons, smart mirrors, smart shelves and RFID.

It’s easy to see why IoT is such a hot topic at present. Although there are real challenges involved, such as privacy and security, as well as the necessity for agility and innovation and seamless connectivity, IoT opens doors to many opportunities. The new rule for the future seems to be that whatever can be connected, will be.

The business case for IoT for retailers lies in connecting with their customers in new and relevant ways, as well as driving efficiencies in their supply chains. We are already seeing pilots in South Africa with connected ‘smart’ sensors in store and planogram ‘robots’ to manage consistent instore execution. Local retailers are forging new relationships with smart, innovative partners who will accompany them on their journey.

 

This article originally appeared in Bizcommunity

Truworths Selects Centric 8 PLM software

gI_85495_Truworths Artwork

Truworths is synonymous with fashion apparel retailing in South Africa, and offers internationally inspired clothing and footwear across a diversified portfolio of some of the country’s most admired and recognized brands. Truworths also recently acquired Office Retail Group, a leading young fashion footwear retailer in the UK, Ireland and Germany. These brands are either internally developed or exclusive to the business and include Truworths, Truworths Man, Inwear, LTD, Uzzi and Identity, as well as the licenced brand Daniel Hechter.

In order to reinforce its competitive positioning and to continue to grow internationally, Truworths is focusing on delivering on-trend products and styles. As a consequence, the Truworths group has a wide portfolio of brands and styles and adopts a fast fashion business model for a large portion of its product ranges. A key goal is to reduce time to market.

“PLM soon appeared as an obvious solution to improve our ability to deal with an increasingly complex business,” explained a spokesperson for Truworths. “We began investigating PLM solutions and spent many hours in presentations and workshops with different PLM providers. We chose Centric 8 because it was user friendly, easy to configure and we could simply make it work the way we want it to.”

The Centric 8 PLM platform will be used across all of the group’s brands and all product types to help structure assortment planning and product development processes in order to support Truworths’ rapid expansion.

Truworths also aims to use Centric’s innovative technologies – particularly its integrated mobile applications. “We were impressed by Centric’s mobile applications, which work well with the core system,” the spokesperson said.

“We share Truworths’ passion for innovation and fashion,” says Chris Groves, president and CEO of Centric Software. “We are very proud to work with one of South Africa’s leading fashion retailers and bring our experience in fast fashion to help them in their strategy to achieve sustainable growth.”

About Truworths

Truworths International Ltd (the company) is an investment holding and management company listed on the JSE in South Africa and the Namibian Stock Exchange. Its principal trading entities, Truworths, Office Retail Group and Young Designers Emporium, are engaged either directly or through subsidiaries, agencies or franchises in the retailing of fashion clothing and footwear apparel and related merchandise. The company and its subsidiaries (the group) operate primarily in South Africa and the United Kingdom, and have an emerging presence in sub Saharan Africa countries and Germany.

Source:  Ten Links. 

Beyond Borders: The role of mobile in Africa’s retail economy

ecommerce

Author: Craig Page-Lee (@cpl_ignite )

While only a relatively small percentage of South Africa’s population makes purchases via their mobile phones — at this stage — the reality is that this growing segment will eventually present a major challenge for the bricks-and-mortar retail sector, not just here but also in the rest of Africa.

The potential for a growing online retail sector on the continent will surely become a reality in our lifetime. What will this mean for informal traders? What is the power of mobile’s role in helping build the formal retail sector, defined by the ever-increasing number of new bricks-and-mortar retail environments rolling out across Africa, and what are the opportunities for online and informal traders?

Even greater opportunities

While we may think that tech and mobile may only benefit the formal retail sector, the expected growth in online purchases may actually present even greater opportunities for the informal traders, especially as they’re much closer to consumers and are still a cheaper route to market for many products and brands.

With a population of about 51m people1 and with 89% (>45m people) owning a mobile phone, SA is ranked no. 28 on the “List of Countries by Number of Mobile Phones in Use2. It is further reported that just over 40% of the population owns a smartphone (>21m), close to 60% owns a feature-phone, and that there are over 63m mobile handsets in use, giving SA a mobile penetration of about 130%. With over 15m Internet users in SA3, more than half (57%4) of SA’s internet traffic comes from mobile phone users, reportedly. If every one of those smartphone users makes only one m-commerce transaction a year (applying an average transaction value of just R50 per user, per year), that equates to almost R1bn in value for retailers in SA — the potential for m-commerce within SA alone is beyond question.

While it’s easy to say that there is little, or no, threat to bricks-and-mortar retailers as online shopping still only accounts for just over 1% of total retail spend in SA, the SA marketplace has a number of effective and well-supported online retail sites focusing upon fashion, home and lifestyle products (eg superbalist.com), and covering a broad range of everything (egtakealot.com). In Nigeria, we see the likes of jumia.com.ng, a successful online retailer that has become the leader of e-commerce on the continent. All of these have the capacity to present themselves as real challengers to established FMCG and fashion retailers.

Same online approach

Not only that, what with the influx of a multitude of international fashion retailers into SA (all with equally effective digital shopfronts in their respective home-base locations), we will see the same online approach being adopted to support their SA offerings.

Nevertheless, I genuinely believe that the biggest opportunity exists for the informal traders of Africa.

First, consider the number of clients or customers these traders have each day and, secondly, consider the relationships these traders build over time with their customers — especially those that have regular travel journeys and shopping habits.

With a lower cost of data and the rapidly increasing adoption of mobile banking platforms outside the borders of SA, the opportunity exists to convert traditional informal retailing practice into an online-led engagement and retailing behavior. Imagine the scenario where a consumer can message the informal trader or street vendor, place an order and collect on the way home — irrespective of the products being sold?

How it could play out

This is how it could play out:

The trader or street vendor is able to message the “opt-in” groups and advise on fresh stock delivery — even with images. Consumers can place their orders, make payment via the likes of M-Pesa and advise the retailer or street vendor upon expected arrival time. The packages can then be made up for collection by the consumers on their journey through the day. By building a contact list (on mobile database) of opt-in consumers, the retailer or street vendor is one step closer to the development of a loyalty programme and is able to select the best products to be put aside for the loyal, supporting customer.

The limitations for such a simple platform are, however, very similar to high-end m-commerce transactions, those being;

  • Mobile-handset screen size, resolution and navigation capability
  • Network capability and cost to use — as many consumers are cash-strapped across Africa. The cost of conducting m-commerce impacts directly upon the amount of products and services that may be purchased

More successful

In a way, m-commerce in other parts of Africa could actually become more successful and more broadly used than in SA, considering the ease and frequency of use of online payment gateways. This should apply to feature phones as well.

But are we being too ambitious in our thinking on the power of mobile as a retail channel on the content and, if so, how long before we see greater adoption and ubiquitous engagement in m-commerce across sub-Saharan Africa?

A recent Millward Brown Digital Survey (2015) determined that close to 80% of US marketers confirmed that they would increase spending on mobile as a channel if they could track ROI better. With the ever-increasing number of mobile users in Africa, this presents a huge opportunity for brands to exploit this ubiquitous channel. Going beyond simple mobile measurement in Africa remains a challenge, though, as marketers target people predominantly.

Must for marketers

Understanding consumer behavior, especially within the informal sector, and how the brand conversation flows seamlessly across devices are a must for marketers as they strive to develop a deeper understanding of this broad and complex mix of consumers. Surely formalising ways of capturing data (via mobile platforms) in the informal sector will bring greater value to any brand than ever before?

In closing, and to paraphrase a quote from PayGate CEO, Peter Harvey, as the world of e-commerce grows in Africa, growth will come from young startups and innovation from niche players. I hope that the VC funders and traditional retailers are ready to invest in the next generation of retail on the African continent — through the mobile phone.

Source: Marklives.com

Brand loyalty is dead

Author: Tess Sulaman

In 1970 Simon & Garfunkel released a song called ‘Keep the Customer Satisfied’. It didn’t do particularly well for them – in fact, it only made it onto the music charts when it was covered by other singers. Its main claim to fame was that it appeared on the B-side of the folk duo’s famous hit single ‘Bridge Over Troubled Water’.

‘Keep the Customer Satisfied’ tells the story of the lengths the band would go to – the travelling, the exhaustion, being away from home – to perform to their fans. The song reflects the sentiments they sing about in another of their songs, ‘Homeward Bound’. Interestingly, though, Simon & Garfunkel never sing about fan acquisition, only fan retention. Keeping their existing customers (or fans) satisfied was their primary focus.

In 1981 the group put on a free concert in Central Park, New York, that drew an audience of around 500,000 fans. That’s in one city. Granted, it’s a big city, but a turnout like that is nothing to be sniffed at. Keeping their customers satisfied clearly worked out well for Simon & Garfunkel.

The same can be said for business. Your existing customer base is far more likely to support your brand than new clients are. Treat your customers well and you’ll develop a loyal following of people who are likely to keep buying from you year after year, and in increasing volumes. You’ll also have a ready-made target market for cross-selling other products or brands in your business. In addition, loyal customers are less likely to shop around and you can usually rely on them for word of mouth marketing, which in itself is likely to bring new customers on board.

This is not to say that companies should not be dedicating resources to customer acquisition. Growing your customer base is vital in any industry in order to expand your business, or even just to keep your head above water.

Estimates vary wildly – between three times and 70 times – as to the difference in costs between retaining a client and acquiring a new one. But all commentators agree, keeping an existing customer is way cheaper than converting a new one.

The key is building brand loyalty

The key is building brand loyalty, a quality that is growing more and more rare in today’s always-on economy. Price wars are among the greatest threats to brand loyalty – and technology is a great price war enabler. First you got to buy your plane tickets online, giving you the chance to compare prices easily and conveniently, and move to a new airline without even thinking. Travel agencies have almost become a thing of the past. Then the price wars came to the insurance industry, and people started switching brands in an instant, cutting out brokers in the process. New technology is currently being tested in retail stores in the United States that messages shoppers on their mobile devices when they come in range of certain products, alerting them to specials, discounts and coupons.

So what is the answer, then? Where are we headed in this fiercely competitive tech world, and how do we keep our customers satisfied?

The good news is that tech actually helps to attract new customers for a lot less money. The flipside of this, of course, is that it’s equally easy for everyone in the market, so no real competitive advantage there. Where businesses can really differentiate themselves is in the way they engage with existing clients.

Firstly, do something that’s never been done before. In 1981, staging a free, open air concert in the middle of New York City was a novelty. It received worldwide recognition and the resultant album, Concert in the Park, which was recorded at the concert, sold millions of copies around the world.

Secondly, keep reinventing yourself. Simon & Garfunkel had officially split in 1970 but reunited for the 1981 concert. They held a few more revival concerts in later years. Paul Simon, one half of the duo, reinvented himself as a solo artist with great success in the 1980s.

Thirdly, put the effort in to give your fans what they want. It’s not going to happen by itself. It takes hard work, creativity and guts to remain ahead of the pack and build a base of loyal brand fans who are prepared to stick with you no matter what your competitors are up to. Otherwise you’re likely to end up on the B-side of someone else’s hit song.

Source: Bizcommunity

Recruiting Trends To Watch In 2016

It’s all about digital

When LinkedIn and online job applications first began to gain traction, they were seen as supplements to the traditional paper résumé and in-person interview. Today, the world of recruiting has gone 100-percent digital.

“From the résumé to the search to the interview, we’re moving toward a digital hiring model,” said Bob Myhal, CEO of NextHire. “Résumés will be displaced by constantly evolving representations of individual experiences, skills and aptitudes that exist purely in the digital realm. By 2016, innovative tools that use social media, big data and other technologies to give tremendous insight into individual job seekers will [be] the primary screening method.”

Jon Bischke, CEO of Entelo noted that digital profiles are able to provide far more insight into a candidate, as many recruiters have realized.

“Twenty years ago, the résumé was a piece of paper,” Bischke told Business News Daily. “Now, it’s a collection of all [candidate] data that can be found online, like participation in online communities, conferences and meetups. Recruiters can assess whether a person will fit, and learn if he or she has the right skills for a job.”

For out-of-area candidates and first-round interviews, the phone call is quickly being replaced by the more-high-tech video interview, too.

“More and more employers are leveraging webcam and video interviews to streamline the hiring process,” Myhal said. “We are already seeing a steep uptick in one-way videos where applicants record their interviews for later on-demand viewing. Live, two-way webcam interviews will also experience tremendous growth over the next three to five years.”

Engaging the ‘passive candidate’

More and more of Generation Y will be entering the job market in the coming years, and will soon make up the largest percentage of the workforce. Employers are quickly learning that these workers have different expectations about the hiring process than past generations.

“Raised on technology, [millennials] do not accept many legacy concepts of recruiting and work,” said Marley Dominguez, CEO of Haystack. “To be effective, recruiters are going to need to engage Gen Y candidates in new ways.”

This is especially true of “passive candidates” — individuals who aren’t necessarily seeking a job, but are open to new opportunities, Myhal said. While some employers have no shortage of applicants who reach out as soon as an opportunity is posted, this is no longer the norm for most companies.

“Today it’s far more important for a recruiter to be proactive when finding candidates,” Myhal said.

If you aren’t doing this already, Bischke advised looking for candidates through their social media profiles and anywhere else they have a Web presence, since today’s professionals expect employers to search for them and take their online branding and positioning very seriously.

More-sophisticated data analytics

Using social networks and other digital profiles as candidate search tools has opened up a much wider talent pool for recruiters to draw from, but the time it takes to do that research could end up taking hiring managers away from their most important task: actually hiring.

“It is not efficient to manually sort through profiles and social network data,” Dominguez said. “We expect that the next trend will be not just sourcing social and mobile recruiting data, but actually applying intelligence to summarizing the important information.”

High-quality analytics programs have already been applied to customer data to help businesses make better strategic decisions. Candidate information will increasingly get the “Big Data treatment” so recruiters can quickly and easily locate the best people for the job.

“Cloud-based hiring tools will allow recruiters and hiring managers to easily and affordably find, evaluate and organize top job candidates, while innovative assessment and filtering techniques will help provide a 360-degree holistic view of top applicants,” Myhal said. “Through biometric data, companies like will better predict which candidates are most likely to be a good fit for a position, and which are not.”

Data analytics may even help recruiters discover which passive candidates are better to approach.

“One of the ways Big Data is impacting recruiting is around using social data to identify people who are more likely to be open to new opportunities,” Bischke said. “[Tools can use] people’s online public footprint to help predict when they might be ready to leave an employer and seek a new job.”

While digital tools will never fully replace the human instinct necessary for identifying the right candidates, staying on top of technological trends could be a recruiter’s biggest advantage going forward.

“You need to take advantage of the new tools and resources that allow you to move beyond the résumé,” Myhal said. “This will help ensure you’re finding the righthire and ultimately saving your business time, headaches and cold, hard cash.”

Originally published on Business News Daily

 

Clothing and textile industry shakes off cobwebs

clothing

THE Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers’ Union (Sactwu) says the clothing, textile, footwear and leather manufacturing industry is entering a period of greater stability and higher levels of growth.

The clothing, textile, footwear and leather manufacturing sector is a key employment driver especially in the Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal, where most factories are located.

The Statistics SA Quarterly Employment Survey released this week shows that in the year to September employment in the sector increased 1.8%. This came after high levels of job losses had decimated the sector for more than two decades when at least 50,000 jobs were lost.

The government’s Industrial Policy Action Plan has identified the sector as “high priority” because of its labour-intensive character.

In many developing countries, the sector has provided the early impetus for industrialisation, economic growth and job creation.

But in the past decade the sector has been hit hard by imports from China and other Asian countries.

Sactwu general secretary Andre Kriel said on Thursday employment over the past year had been driven by growth in the clothing sector (676 new jobs), textile sector (1,197 new jobs) and the leather sector (268 new jobs). Mr Kriel said these figures compared favourably to the declining fortunes of the manufacturing sector as a whole, in which employment decreased 0.3% over the same period.

“This reinforces Sactwu’s opinion that the (clothing, textile, footwear and leather) manufacturing industry is entering a new period of greater stability, and hopefully higher levels of growth,” Mr Kriel said.

Much of this positive turn in employment was attributed to strong support for the industry from the government since 2009, coupled with the union’s Save Jobs campaign.

“Significantly, this is the second consecutive quarter that employment in our industry has grown, following the 3% increase recorded in the previous quarter,” said Mr Kriel.

Johann Baard, executive director of the Cape Clothing Association, representing clothing and textile and manufacturers, echoed Mr Kriel’s sentiments. He said the sector had stabilised because government support measures had led to greater competitiveness and improved productivity due mainly to the installation of new plant, equipment and machinery.

The exchange rate had served as a growing disincentive for retailers to source off shore, Mr Baard said.

They continued to experience cost pressure in the mass-produced commodity clothing sector, “which is where the real potential for massive job creation lies. Here we still experience huge influx of cheap imports from locations such as China, Vietnam, Madagascar, Lesotho and Swaziland,” Mr Baard said.

The survival of compliant factories who pay the bargaining council wage rates was increasingly being threatened by an ever-growing number of noncompliant factories in the non-metro rural locations of SA, “many of whom pay less than half the legal minimum wages”, said Mr Baard.

Figures show about 27,000 workers are employed in these noncompliant factories. “This is a major challenge to the future of the bargaining council and is something the parties to the council will need to address in order to secure the sustainability of compliant factories, particularly in the metro areas of Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban.”

Source: Business Day